Shoe and method of making same



July 2 7, 1926;

F. LUPPINO SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME 2 Sheets-Sheet l Filed March 8, 1924` Juli .27 1926.

1,594,208 F. LUPPINO SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed March 8, 1924 2\Sheet.s-Sheet 2 29 Z5. f.. ri

Patented July 27, 1926.

A 11,524,208 Nr 4QF-FICE. l

FRANK LUPPINO, OF WATKINS, NEW YORK, A

suon AND METHOD or MAKING snm.

Application mea umili s, 1924. serial no. 697,920.

This invention relates to improvements in methods of making shoes.

According to the present methods of making shoes, such as .McKay nailed shoes, Mc- Kay sewed shoes, McKay nailed welt shoes, McKay sewed welt shoes, McKay turned welt shoes and the like, and welt and turned welt shoes ofthe Goodyear type, it has been necessary. when lasting such shoes, to provide an inner sole, which is placed on a last and to which parts of the shoe are permanently secured, such as the edges of the upper, the heel portion of the out sole, and the heel proper, as well as the welt strips in certain of the welt shoes. In the various McKay shoes, some of the partsare secured by nails .which are clinched to the inner sole on the last, making it necessary to provide the completed shoe with an insole of some sort to cover said inner sole :ind the clinched nails, which nails extend not only around the edges of the front part of the shoe, but are also closely arranged at the heel portion due to the necessity of clinching thenails that secure the heel portion of the sole and also those that sec-ure the heel proper to the inner sole. The remarks regarding the heel construction also apply to shoes of the Goodyear type.

Shoes constructed with the parts attached to the insole, as stated above, are very difficult and sometimes impossible to properly or expeditiously repair, and in the case of McKay nailed shoes, the removal of fthe-v worn sole weakens the shoe to an extent such that the new'sole, which can only be nailed on, does not hold/for any length of time. Further, the repairman finds it impossible to do repairing on the kinds of shoes mentioned without distorting the shape of, or breaking down the attached inner sole, with consequent discomfort to theV after the upper has been lasted to an inner wearer.

The particular objects of this invention are to provide a method of making shoes which have all the advantages of the kinds mentioned, such that the method may be practiced at a great saving in the cost of producing such shoes; lalso to provide a method whereby these shoes may be made complete on a single last without the use of expensive machines.

Another object of the present-invention is to provide a shoe and a method of making'the same, whereby Va welt strlp or the like may-be used to takethe place 'of the usual inner sole for supporting the other parts of the shoe, said strip extending all around the shoe and providing a means for attaching the upper .and outsole so as to leave the center of the bottom open or unobstructed above the outsole, whereby the upper and welt strip or strips may be stitched together from the inside.

Another ob1`ect is to provide ay method 65 of making shoes in which an entirely separate and removable insole maybe used to*Y take the place of the usual final cemented insole, thereby making the shoe more easily accessible for repairs, and preventing, durlng repair work, the breaking or deformation of the insole; and whereby the wearer may use interchangeable insoles, or insoles having arch supporting or the like devices attached thereto and which may be removed 'I5 with the insole when repairing the shoe, thereby also .preventing the damage to such devices which usually-occurs in repairing the shoe when these devices are built into the shtopbcnoath the usual permanen" :md 80 non-removable insole.

Another object is to provide a method whereby a welt strip may be temporarily tacked to a last without an inner sole, and so Y that an upper, either turned or ordinary, may then be lasted to the strip and afterlasting. the upper and strip may' be removed as a unit and sewed together along their inner edges on the ordinary stitching machine through the aperture formed by e0 said welt strip; also, to provide a method whereby stitched shoes and stitched Weltshoes of the `kinds mentioned may be produced in which the entire outer edge of the outsole, including the heel portion, is secured to the shoe lby stitching, and whereby an outer welt strip may beL sewed to an upper on an. ordinary stitching machine welt stripthrough the aperture formed by said welt strip. A Still another object of the invention is to provide a method whereby, in Welt shoes other than turned;shoes, small pieces of scrap leather may be utilized in, place of a continuous welt strip so that?- thev scrap pieces perform the `functions of the usual fixed inner sole forsupporting the parts oi the ,shoe at a great saving in cost. Another object is to vprovide a method 'of 110, making shoes whereby the shoes produced thereby may be easily and inexpensively repaired, without the use of the various costly special stitching machines now required, and whereby in certain types of shoes a nailed shoe may be repaired as a sewed shoe, or vice versa. Y

Other objects of the invention are to rmprove shoes and methods of making the same in the other respects hereinafter spec1- fied and claimed.

In the accompanying drawings: n

Fig. 1 is a plan view of a last of suitable construction for use in making shoes by the p method embodied in this invention. u

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary perspective view of a part of thelast showing the .method of temporarily securing a welt strip thereto.

Fig. 3 is a similar view showing a portion of a shoe upper lasted to the welt strip. Fig. 4 is an enlarged fragmentary section of the last showing the welt strip tacked thereon. i Fig. 5 is a similar view showing the upper lasted to the welt strip vasin Fig. 3. Q

Fig. 6 is a fragmentary perspective view of the welt strip and upper removed from thelast after the upper has been lasted to the welt strip, and showing the two parts secured by stitches along their .inner edges. Fig. 7 is a fragmentary section showingk the parts as in Fig. 6, replaced on the last and an out-solesecured thereon by nails to produce a shoe of the McKay nailed type.

Fig. 8 is a bottom plan view of a shoe of the McKay nailed type produced by the" method embodied in this invention, with the sole 'and the upper partly broken away to shdw the welt strip and the inside working` aperture. 'A u ig. 9 is a fragmentary enlarged section showing a shoe of the stitched welt type formed by the present method.

Fig. 10 is a similar view showing a shoe of the turned welt type. I o

Fi 11 isa similar view showing a shoe of the oodyear welt type formed by the present method. t

Figs. 12 and 13 are transverse sections of a shoe of the McKay stitched type, and a shoe of the McKay stitched welt type. respectively. l

Fig. 14 isa longitudinal section of a shoe of the McKay stitched welt type, showing the method ofstitching the heel portion of the outsole to the outer welt, and of securing the heel to the outsole.

According to lthe method of making shoes embodied in the resent Iinvention, a welt .strip or the like 1s temporarily secured to a last, in place of the usual fixed inner sole i which ordinarily supportsV the various parts a marginal band or member which takes the place of the usual inner sole, and provides an aperture or working opening, inside the shoe, for permitting stitching to be done by any ordinary stitching machine. The welt strip also allows a separate, removable insole to be used, which covers the fixed welt strip or member and permits the easy and practical repair of the shoe by providing access to the bottom parts from the inside for stitching new parts to the welt strip and upper.

The several operations by which the improved method is carried on are preferably erformed on a single last, and it is desirable that the last should be so formed that both temporary tacking and ermanent clinching operations may be perA ormed on it.- A suitable last for this purpose is shown in Fig. 1, and comprises the usual wood` front and rear body portions A and B, hinged together, and each having the usual flat metal bottom plate a: and b respectively. These plates are provided with the usual apertures C for permitting tacks to enter the wood to temporarily secure an outsole in place in the usual manner, and in addition, a series or row of apertures I) are provided, spaced from the edges and from each other, such that a welt strip or the like may be temporarily tacked to the last by its inner edge,` preferably all around the last, while leaving a band E of imperforate 'metal outwardly beyond the apertures D which is overlapped by the welt strip and which allows the clinching of nails, tacks or other metal securing devices inthe subsequent operations.

In the embodiment of the invention shown in the drawings, a shoe of the nailed Mc- Kay type is illustrated .in the successive steps of production in Figs. 2 8. l0 designates a welt strip or the like which may bc of any suitable cross section, a variety of which are used in the art, and according to the kind of shoe required, a light or heavy apertures D with the opposite edge of the strip extending to, or substantially to the edge of the last. The strip 10 preferably extends around the last, and forms a continuous marginal member, and it is temporarily secured in place thereon as by lasting tacks 12 which pass through the strip 10 and the apertures D into the wood body portions A, B, see Figs.` 2 and 4. An unlasted upper 13 of any usual or suitable form is now drawn over the last and the bottom or free edges 14 thereof are brought` over on to the welt strip 10 and preferably secured thereto all around the last as by lasting nails 15 which pass through the edges 14 and through the strip adjacent the outer edgethereof and are clinched by engaging the marginal-portions E ofthe last plates a and b. Inthis step the upEer is of course first softened so that it may and after' drying, the lasted upper 13 and welt strip 'may be removed together from the last, and owing to the fact that the welt strip is a marginal member only, the space f porarily' secured together by lasting tacks its intended or the like, which will hold theM parts together, as the strip will have sufficient thick` ness .of material to hold the tacks in place.

After the ulper. has dried on the last to orm, it may be removed with the strip and these parts secured together by stitching as before, after which the tacks may be removed. VThis procedure is especially desirable whenit is desired to substitute a second. row of stitching in the place tapering kind, vno filling 1s needed as there of the lasting nails 15.

The different steps of the invention, as thus far'described are used in making all of the various types of shoes before mentioned,

the succeeding steps however Vary in accordance with the kindof shoe desired.

In'the productionof the McKay nailed -shoe Figs. 2-8, the'neXt step is to secure an outsole to the connected upper and welt strip. For this purpose, the upper and strip after being stitched together as ,l described' are placed'again on the last, or on any last aving bottom plates or portions adapted to permit clinching operations to be performed. The outsole 20 is lnow placed on the last over the edges of the upper as usual, and is preferably temporarily secured vin position as by lastingtacks passing through it into the ex osed wood of the last at the apertures' or the outsole 20 maydbe temporarily secured by cement or otherwise. The outsole is now secured to the connected edges of the lasted upper 13 and the welt strip 10, all the way around, by means of the us- -ual nails, tacks or other metal securing means 21 adapted to be clinched over, by engaging the bottom plate, see Figs. 7, 8, and 12'. It 4wille-be seen that by extending the welt stri 10 all around the shoe, a support `is provi ed towhich the outsole 2() maybesecured at the heel ortion as well as at the front andsides, an this heel portion of the outsole, in turn provides a support for the heel proper which. maybe nailed securely 'thereto by clinching the nails, while nevertheless the heel is not attached to an insole as in-'theusual constructions. If the shoe e shaped to the last,

is now removed from the last, a separate unattached insole 22 of any desired form may `is used, a cavity is formed between the inner edges of the strip such that the insole wouldI be depressed therein in use and deformed, with consequent discomfort to the wearer, the cavity may, before the outsole is secured, 'be filled to the level of the upper face of the strip with any suitable filler or waste leather. Thus a strong, sturdy shoe is produced which is of relatively light wei ht due to the factthat in place of a thic insole a marginal member only is used, which also app'reciably reduces the cost of production of shoesof this kind. When the Welt strip used is of the4 well known thin vices or the like attached thereto may be' used, andthe devices. can be adjusted or loo changed from timeto timeby removing the insole, and this arrangement allows said devices to .be removed with the insole when the shoes are to be repaired, thus precludingthe possibility `of dama ing them by the pounding to which the s oes are subjected when on the last.

A shoe of-the McKay stitched welt type,

formed in accordance with the `method em-v bodied in this invention isv shown in Figs.

9, 13 and 14. In this construction the welt strip 10a is tacked all around the last and the edge 14ea of the upper 13a secured thereto by stitches 17 as before. To produce a'Mc- Kay welt shoe, one or more outer welt strips must'be arranged between the upper and the outsole in such a..way that a flange or outwardly extended edge is produced to which lthe outsole may be secured by stitching.

This outer welt strip is preferably arranged.

to extend all around 'the shoeeso that' thev outsole may be secured thereto all around `1 its edges. 25 Fig. 9 shows such a welt strip, which may-be secured to the connected upper 13 andwelt .strip 10 either by extending the stri around, in engagement with the edges o the upper and stitching 1t to the parts at the time the upper and inner weltv strip are stitched together, as by the stitches chine.

26, or the Welt strip 25 may be eitherx temporarily tacked in place or permanently secured by a few lasting nails before the stitching takes place. After the Welt strip 25 has been secured, an outsole 27, positioned on the last over the shoe parts as explained before, may be stitched, as at 28 to the outwardly extended edge 29 of the Welt strip or strips 25 by any suitable stitching nia- It desired the outsole 27 may be channelled as shown at 30 to conceal the stitches 28 and thereby effect a more finished appearance. It desired, in constructions em ploying an outer Welt strip as just described the inner Welt strip 'may be formed of a number of small pieces of Waste leather, tacked on the last, end to end to form the continuous marginal member, so that the outer Welt strip is relied on for maintaining the form of the upper and providing the necessary strength. Upon referring to Fig.

14 it will be seen that the stitches are car ried all around the shoe and are adapted to securely attach the heel portion, as Well as the front portion of the outsole 27 to the Welt strip 25 and the strip 25 in turn is securely attached to the inner welt strip 10l by the stitches 17a. lIhus the outsole 2T is adapted to take the lace of the usual inner sole as a support or the heel proper 32, which is secured by the clinched nails 33 asin the McKay nailed type of shoe previously described. Thus the separate detached insole 22 may be removed at any' time to permit access to the shoe bottom. rllhe insole 22 in Fig. 13 is shovvn as having a rigid arch supporting device 34 secured to its under side, While in Fig. 14, a flexible devicee of this sort is shown, of the sort adapted to be sprung or adjusted to hold a pad between it and the insole, the pad being interchangeable With pads of other form or thickness when desired. These devices are4 therefore removable with the insole and are not damaged when the shoe is repaired. 4A filling of any suitable sort may be used, as before, but this has been omitted in Fig. 14, to more clearly show the shoe construction.

Itis sometimes ldesirable in shoes of the sort just described to further secure the out# sole by means of a evv nails or securing, devices adapted to pass through the parts to they may be clinched against the `bottom plates of the last. Such securing means are shown at 31 Fig-9; f

In making a shoe of the McKay turned Welt type, see Fig. 10, the Welt strip 1()h and upper 13b are-secured together as before,iex cept that the upper is placed on the last Wrong side out. The upper after being secured to the Welt stripis'then turned and lasted and the outsole 20" is secured to the outwardly extending margin .35l

mageos of the usual permanently attached insole,

thus making the shoe bottom more accessible for repairs, and providing a lighter shoe of equal strength and appearance at a reduced cost for material. A Goodyear Welt construction is shown in Fig; 11, the inner Welt strip .38 being channeled at 39 for attachment to the edge 40 of the upper, and the outer Welt strip 41 is secured to both parts, all around the shoe, and provides an extended edge for the attachment of the outsole 42 also all around the shoe. If desired, an additional Welt strip may be interposed between the outsole 42 and the Welt strips 38 and 41. By this construction a Working aperture is provided inside the shoe to permit access to the shoe bottom, both in making the shoe and in the subsequent repairing, which is not possible With any of the Goodyear shoes novv known. The aperture may be filled as desired and this filling covered Withva removable insole as before.

I claim as my invention:

1. A method of making shoes which .consists in temporarily securing a Welt strip all around a last to form an endless marginal member and thereby forming an aperture inwardly of said strip, lasting an upper to the last and securing its edges to said marginal member, removing said upper and member Ifrom the last and stitching their edges together through said aperture, and securing an outsole to said upper and Welt strip.

2. A method of making shoes which consists in temporarily securing a Welt strip all around a last to form an endless marginal supporting member and thereby forming'an aperture within said member, lasting an upper to the last and securing its edges to said marginal supporting member, removing said upper and member, from the last and stitching their edges together-throuffh said aperture, securing on outsole to sald upper and Welt strip by means of metallic securing devices Which are passed through Said outsole, upper and Welt strip-and are clinched over against the top face of said Welt strip, Whereby a shoe is formed in which access to said stitching and said securing devices may be had through said aperture.

3. A method of making shoes which consists in temporarily securing a Welt strip all around a last to form anendless marginal member, and to produce an aperture'inside an aperture within said member, lasting an upper to the last and securing its edges to said marginal supporting member, removing said upper and member from the last and stitching them together through said aperture, securing an outsole to said upper and welt strip by means of metallic securing devices which are passed through said outsole, upperand welt strip and are clinched over against the top face of said welt strip,

and securing a heel to the heel portion of sists in temporarily securing a Welt strip said outsole so as to be support-ed thereby.

5. A method of making shoes which conall around a last to form an endless mar( ginal supporting member and thereby forming an aperture within said member, lasting an upper to the last and securing its edges to said marginal supporting member, removing said upper and member from the last and Istitching their edges together through said aperture, securing an outsole to said upper 'and welt strip by means of metallic securing devices which are passed through said outsole, upper and welt strip and are clinched over against the top face of said welt strip, and securing a heel lto the heel portion of said outsole by metallic securing devices which are clinched against the inner face of said outsole. whereby said securing devices are accessible through said aperture.

6. A method of making shoes which consists in temporarily securing a welt strip to a last having a Hat lmetal bottom plate to form an endless, marginal, supporting member with an aperture withinthe same, lasting an'upper to the last and securing its marginal portions to the welt strip adjacent its outer edges, removingsaid last and strip and stitching them together along the inner edge of said strip through said aperture, attaching a second welt strip to said upper and said first welt strip so as to leave an outwardly extended edge, and securing an outsole to said extended edge of said second welt strip, whereby the inner face of said outsole is accessible through said aperture. i

7 A method of making shoes which consists in temporarily securing a Welt strip all around a last to form an endless marginal member and an aperture inside said strip, lasting an upper to the last and securing its edges to said marginal member, removing said upper and member from the lastand,v stitching their edges together, attaching a second welt strip to said upper and said marginal member by stitching it to the inner edges thereof through :said aperture, and securing an outsole to the extended edge of said second welt strip.

8. A method of making shoes whichconsists in temporarily securing a welt strip all around a last to form an endless marginal supporting member and thereby forming an aperture within said member, llasting an upper to the la'st a-nd securing its edges to said marginal supporting member, removing said upper and member from the last and stitching their edges together through said aperture, attaching a second welt strip to said Lipper and said marginal member by stitching its inner edge to the inner edges thereof through said aperture, securing' an outsole to the extended edge of said second welt strip and attaching a heel to the heel portion of said outsole so as to be supported thereby. y

9. A method-of making shoes which consists in temporarily securing a welt strip to a last havng a flat metal bottom plate to form an endless marginal supporting member having an aperture Within the same, lasting an upper to the last and securing its marginal portions tor the welt strip, removing said last and strip and stitching themtogether. through said aperture, attaching a second welt strip to said upper and said first welt strip so as to leave an outwardly extended edge, securing an outsole to said extended edge of said second welt strip and inserting a separate detachable insole in said shoe to cover said welt strip, whereby said outsole is'accessible through said aperture by removing said detachable insole.

FRANK LUPPINO. 

